Food for Thought with Alex Bielak -A Taste of Spring

A Taste of Spring

It’s February, and decidedly wintery. But it’s getting lighter out, and a sure sign of spring being around the corner, the winter edition of Taste of Burlington is set to run at a couple of dozen Burlington restaurants, February 21 – March 13, 2016. Based on dishes I sampled at the launch event, held at the Performing Arts Centre earlier this month, diners are in for a treat. And, nice to see, several participants are new to the promotion this year.

Before I dived in, sipping on an intense Bodhi Bar organic cold-pressed beet juice with cinnamon, ginger carrot and apple, I enjoyed visiting with Kim Hartley, the nice lady at the Visit Myrtle Beach booth, particularly as I’m planning on a visit to South Carolina next year. You can win a trip for two to this upcoming culinary destination when you eat at a participating “Taste” establishment.

About half the participating restaurants were present at the launch, with the Holiday Inn’s Alloro, a welcome newcomer. They pulled out the stops with a mushroom-stuffed, herb-crusted veal tenderloin, red roasted garlic mash, served in a mini Yorkshire pudding with brandy demi-glace. In thanking the organizers for the invitation I predicted they would be in the running for top honors along with dishes from a couple of past winners.

Two offerings, in particular, stood out from the pack. The Queen’s Head produced a steak and wild mushroom Wellington, with a splendid gorgonzola and double smoked bacon cream sauce. Big props to them: they’re clearly not missing Chef Will Edsall who helmed the pub to serial victories in the past. Parenthetically, I gather Edsall is now in Toronto, having scored a gig as Sous-Chef in the new Susur Lee restaurant, Fring’s, in Toronto. It’s a collaboration between Lee and Drake, and you don’t get many higher profile placements than that!

Chef Mitchell Lamb (Stonehouse) played to his strengths again, countering with a compactly and prettily-layered apple-braised pork shank, with a chorizo and smoked cheddar cornbread and a beautiful morel mushroom foam. It was the dish of the evening for me, the first I finished every last morsel of. But that was because the pastry on the Wellie was a bit soggy, otherwise it would have been a tie. (My wife disagreed, ranking Queen’s Head first and Alloro second, so there you go.)

There was much else to enjoy (see photos) and the winners were ultimately deemed to be as follows: The Judges’ top honours went to the Queen’s Head, with Stonehouse and West Plains Bistro 2nd and 3rd respectively. I gather the result was close, with less than a 1/3rd of a per cent separating first and second. I hope there was a recount!

West Plains was one of my stronger contenders: I liked their potato-crusted salmon with a lemon aioli, but, not being a fan of olives I was less keen on the sundried tomato and green olive tapenade that came with the dish along with a potato chip and lemon-dressed arugula.

The coveted People’s Choice Award also went to Queen’s Head, with Alloro in the runner up spot. Third was a tie between Stone House and West Plains. A special mention (by me) for the key lime, ancho chili-spiked crème fraiche by Ivy Bar and Kitchen: it was right up there with the sauces by Queen’s Head and Stonehouse.

A final note. Tourism Burlington organizes the launch event and has done since 2008. With approaching a decade of experience, the affair goes from strength to strength under the watchful eye of Linda Cvetanovic, who deserves huge kudos for sweating the details. A fun evening that usually sells out, it draws guests from Oakville to Stoney Creek; the organization really is spectacular and seamless, at least from the perspective of someone invited to partake of and report on the goings on.

No detail is overlooked. There are clear descriptions of the food in the program, and all the pertinent social media information is readily to hand, a wonderful green crew provide efficient cleanup and re-cycling (I still want to write about Burlington Green, you guys!), loyal local beer (Cameron’s) and Coffee (Lakeshore Coffee House) sponsors, great communication, and manageable queues.

One small thing for the organizers to consider. How about putting the dessert folk together in one area, perhaps alongside Lakeshore Coffee? I began my evening by inadvertently sampling Pepperwood Bistro’s sticky toffee bread pudding. Though it was declared by my wife as, and I quote, “mmmmm,” I could have done without it being my first bite of the evening. But that’s a small quibble, and I know many, whose mantra is “Life is uncertain, eat dessert first,” would vigorously disagree.

For more pictures, click here. 

To see all past columns please see (and “like”) the Food for Thought Archives

Alex (Alex can be reached at fft@thehamiltonian.info or on twitter @AlexBielak)

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak-Riding along with “Sharp My Knife”

Sharp My Knife - Checking the blade

Riding along with “Sharp My Knife”

Iron Chef Morimoto is quoted as having said “A kitchen without a knife is not a kitchen.” With due deference, I’d add one word to that: “A kitchen without a SHARP knife is not a kitchen.”

Knives are one of the leading causes of injuries in the home, with dull blades counter-intuitively more dangerous than well-honed steel. A dull knife requires greater pressure to slice through meat or vegetables and the chances of the blade slipping, and slicing your finger instead of your celery, are far higher.

As someone that uses his knives a lot, over the years I’ve filled drawers with complex, time-consuming or largely-useless knife sharpening gadgets, before finally settling on a Chef’s Choice electric sharpener, consistently a “Cook’s Illustrated” best choice. I’ve been pretty satisfied with it, but it’s an expensive solution for most people.

Many readers will have heeded the siren bell, handing over their lawnmower blades and garden

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak- Sips and Bites – Holiday Gift Edition

Sips and Bites – Holiday Gift Edition 

The past months have been busy with a lot of travel and other commitments, but I’m glad to be back. With Christmas almost upon us here is a short roundup of books and gifts that are sure to please your favourite foodie, even if that is yourself!

I’ve had the pleasure of living over the past few months with a few cookbooks that I have come to appreciate. Any cook will love one or more of these to peruse once the turkey is done!

I wrote in May about “Curbside: Modern street food from a vagabond chef” by Niagara-based Chef Adam Hynam-Smith (Whitecap Books). It is indeed a wonderful source of inspiration and one of my favourite books of the year.

Another book that I have turned to often, since I got my review copy, is the mammoth tome, “The Food Lab” by Kenji Lopez-Alt Managing Culinary Director of the great online site Serious Eats. He “birthed” the 6½ pound (seriously, you need to read this on a sturdy surface) earlier this year and I find myself drawn to it, not least for its down to earth and very practical writing, but to check on things like when to salt meat, his extensive testing of techniques etc., and for a better understanding of the science behind cooking. Given its size it has hands down the best cost per page ratio of any of the books I’ve seen this year.

My forays into Molecular Gastronomy have been helped by the book of the same name by Jose Sanchez, published by Wiley. It is a lovely book, that is both highly technical and practical, really aimed at culinary students. I like it for the clear definitions, history and explanations of the applications of various compounds used in molecular cuisine.

I’m also enjoying a trio of more ethnic books which are helping me re-connect with my European

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak- Garden Fresh – Relaunching the Rock Garden

Garden Fresh – Relaunching the Rock Garden 

The drone footage shows just how stunning the re-launched Rock Garden at the Royal Botanical Gardens will be. The inter-twined paths of the new year-round perennial gardens are sinuous as vines, and the waterways feature state of the art programmable lighting and sound. The nearly-completed and fully-accessible Visitor Centre features a leaf-shaped roof, restaurant, and banquet space for 120 guests. There’s also a million dollar courtyard with water features that will accommodate 2 - 300, and the venerable tea house has also had an upgrade.

As part of a focus group, gathered in the RBG boardroom earlier this month, I was there to provide feedback on the food-themed grand re-opening events tentatively scheduled for May 13-15 2016. The Rock Garden was first built in 1931, and the recent transformation of the beloved space has entailed no less than $20 Million of public and private funds. For that kind of investment expect fireworks. Or better yet a spectacular light show, set to music, showcasing the history of the RBG.

The RBG Board want the events to become a premiere annual fundraiser, and the plans are nothing if

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak - Sips and Bites – early fall 2015 edition, with bonus giveaway

Sips and Bites – early fall 2015 edition, with bonus giveaway 

There are a couple events, beginning TOMORROW, that merit mention. I’m also pleased to: share some breaking news about an exciting new premier bash that is being developed to launch next May; report on the recent Flamborough Chili Fest; and point you to a couple of tasty, quick reads.

The ever-popular Chef Michael Smith is at Springridge Farm tomorrow, Sunday 27th September, between 10:30 and 12:30. He will be speaking about his new Cookbook, ‘Make Ahead Meals’. You’ll see from a previous Food for Thought, he’s a genuine and funny presenter well worth hearing from. When I first met him at Springridge he stayed until every single copy of his last book (Family Meals - which recently won a Gold Medal at the Taste Canada Food Writing Awards) had been signed. He’s not perfunctory in the least, engaging with the crowds of folk who clearly adore him. It will be crowded, so get there early and take in some of the other offerings at this family and foodie-oriented destination.

The very enjoyable Harvest Halton takes place on Sunday, October 4, from noon - 4:00 p.m. at Country Heritage Park in Milton. Local farmers pair with area chefs to create dishes, and all food and drink tastings are included. A WagJag discount offer of up to 54% off of regular priced tickets makes the event even more affordable, with prices going down the more you buy. Kids 12 and under are just $5.00 at the door. Readers can win two tickets (valued at $60) simply by leaving a comment below, or tweeting to me @AlexBielak and using the hashtag #harvesthalton. I will draw from among entrants toward the end of the week.

I’ve heard the Royal Botanical Gardens is looking at introducing a major annual signature event that will be run “in tandem with the opening of their newly renovated and beloved Rock Garden.” It will feature local celebrity chefs, entertainment, and an “incredible finale” that is being kept under wraps for now. I’ll be happy to share more as I am able.

The 3rd Annual Flamborough Chili Fest was held earlier this week. I was sorry not to be able to accept the invitation to be a judge again this year, and hear I missed some great offerings. All the funds raised benefitted the Flamborough Women's Resource Centre: it provides support services for all women in the community including information and community referrals, individual counselling, legal advocacy and support, women's groups, transitional housing support for victims of abuse, and teen peer support groups. A worthy cause indeed.

Flamborough Downs carried off the majority of the accolades, repeating in three categories. They were again the Overall People's Choice winners, and took Best Garnish/Presentation and Hot and Spicy classes again as well, adding Best Booth to their haul this year. The lovely ladies at Roseto Culinary and Catering Services were also repeat winners carrying off the Celebrity Judge Favourite title. The Chili Fest will be back in 2016, and I hope to return as a judge too.

Finally, fancy a really good, fast, tasty read? Taste Canada in partnership with the Food Bloggers of Canada (of which I’m a proud member) recently celebrated the first-ever winners for best French and English-language posts on food blogs. The winner in the Category for Best English Post was "Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Hazelnut, Orange, and Saffron." The French gold laureate was "Pizza 3 minutes: saucisses italiennes, épinards, tomates cerise, coeurs d'artichauts et mozzarella.” Congratulations Allison Day from ‘Yummy Beet’ and Christelle Tanielian from ‘Christelle is Flabbergasting’.

To close, I’d mention this is the 90th Food for Thought. Stay with me to the centenary folks! 

To see more pictures, click here.

To see all past columns please see (and “like”) the Food for Thought Archives

Alex (Alex can be reached at fft@thehamiltonian.info or on twitter @AlexBielak)

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak - How I “cooked” with @CHEF_LYNN

How I “cooked” with @CHEF_LYNN

Life is good. Today is, of course, the 22nd anniversary of the official recognition of the baguette (thanks Mother Google), and I’m just back from the first ever Scottish Salmon Festival in Inverness. As noted in my last column, I took the opportunity of being in Scotland to partake of three splendid and educational tours: at the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh, and Glenfiddich and Abelour distilleries in the Highlands. I’ll be writing about them later and will provide links once the piece is published.

Re-entry to the Southern Ontario food scene was swift. I received an invitation to participate in the 5th Stein and Dine in Waterloo. The main draw was Pitchin’ In star and Chopped Canada Judge Chef Lynn Crawford. (Readers may recall Food for Thought covered Crawford’s appearance at Denninger’s Diamond Anniversary about a year ago, but was unable to secure an interview at that time.)

The Waterloo gig was clearly going to be my chance!

In many ways the Kitchener-Waterloo food and drink scene is poised to take off the way Hamilton-Burlington has prospered during the past three years. KW has long been known for the bounteous St Jacob’s Farmers’ Market, and hosting what National Geographic crowned the best Oktoberfest outside of Munich, Germany. But there’s a lot else going on these days, with fine culinary talent being attracted to the area, new breweries abounding (as befits the area’s Germanic origins) and active social media devoted to the topic. I’ve often directed readers south toward St. Kits, Niagara and east to Halton : I can heartily recommend going a bit further northward as well. 

Dave MacNeil, Executive Director of Kitchener-Waterloo Oktoberfest told me the festival now counts four silos: Cultural and family activities, Sports, Business to Business, and Culinary. They’ve brought food “front and center” and while “there has always been the traditional foods like schnitzel, and sausage on a bun available at the fest halls, there will be more food events than ever this year.” There will be a Taste of Oktoberfest culinary series featuring Bavarian-inspired menus and beer pairings, Oktoberlicious (think Taste of Burlington’s prix-fixe menu program), and Oktoberfeast, a food truck gathering with trucks from all over Ontario. For full details see the Oktoberfest website.

So there I was at the culinary kickoff, Stein and Dine, for a dinner prepared by Chef Lynn and the staff of the Waterloo Inn. When I finally got to eat it, it was pretty tasty. “My” salad with beer-pickled beets was light and well dressed. A trout schnitzel with pilsner remoulade was a standout, perfectly cooked, quite the trick given the number of portions served. The Applewood-smoked pork chop with sausage gravy was very tender and accompanied by an unusual side: a ham hock, apple and sauerkraut bread pudding.

Dessert was a signature dish from Crawford’s restaurant, Ruby Watchco, a sweet pretzel streusel with airy pumpkin cheesecake, served in a small mason jar. Each of the dishes were well-paired with a Molson product (Creemore Springs lager and pilsner, and Rickard’s Red and White) by Justin Lamontagne, one of only 8 Cicerones (think beer sommeliers) in Canada.

You’ll note I said “My” salad. Yes indeed, I ended up on stage, endured a Survivor-style elimination (see photo by Sylvia Pond Photography), and was dressed by Chef so I could prep the salad with her. That involved more of the same, i.e. no, as in zero, handling of food, except for pieces of pickled beet stuffed in my mouth and a bit of jar shaking. Now I admit I had provoked Chef with my comment about silly hats (see photos again), and fully deserved the continuous ribbing I took from her, to the delight of the crowd.

I departed the stage arms full: a jar of brown derby dressing, a spoon, a chef’s hat, a cleaning cloth, her book (At Home with Lynn Crawford), and a tube of Rub A535 to soothe my aching arms. As I said later on Twitter, I’m expecting the offers to come rolling in from the fest halls now I’ve proved my mettle as a beer carrier.

The thing I did not leave the event with was an interview with Chef Crawford.

Third time lucky?

To see more pictures, click here.

To see all past columns please see (and “like”) the Food for Thought Archives

Alex (Alex can be reached at fft@thehamiltonian.info or on twitter @AlexBielak)