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Friday, March 1, 2013

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak- Heat in the Kitchen

We all know the adage “If you can’t stand the heat get out of the kitchen.” I can imagine it being yelled at the height of a dinner service in a French restaurant in the days of Escoffier. The yeller would have been Chef, immaculate in his whites and toque; the yellee some hapless apprentice wilting at the stovetop as a result of his exertions during a long shift.



The title of this week’s column is a nod towards the remarkably-titled book by Bill Buford, “Heat: An Amateur's Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher in Tuscany.” It’s a great read, and gives true insight into what passions can drive those who are obsessed with food.

My nephew, a talented pastry chef, once told me that when he was cooking in a Michelin-starred restaurant,


Saturday, February 16, 2013

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak- Sips and Bites - February 2013


Sips and Bites - February 2013 

This week is a bit of a miscellany, providing some options for readers to enjoy in the next few weeks.

Taste of Burlington is in full swing, ending March 10th, and it’s a great way to try a new eatery. The prix-fixe promotion features almost two dozen restaurants offering lunches as low as $15, and four-course dinners ranging from $30-40. The website has all the details, including where to find vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free and children’s options.  

Meanwhile I was alerted via Twitter to the opening of a new Italian restaurant in Hamilton. Prosecco is at 275 King St. East and one of the new owners, Mario Nesci, told me they have been doing good business since they opened February 5th (and not last October per the relatively favourable Spec review by Dan Kislenko). Mario said their website should be up in a couple of weeks and the place certainly sounds like a good addition to our local food scene.

Watching the Valentine’s Day episode of CBC’s Dragon’s Den, I was amused to see a businessman in a cow suit come and make a pitch for funding. Ed Dorian is a Hamilton restaurateur who several years ago invented a different take on poutine, called Mootine! Though Ed did not get the money, he did get the girl, proposing to his girlfriend, Debbie, on the show… (ahhh).

If you want to try this concoction of mashed potatoes, meatballs, gravy and cheese, ($3 for a small, $4 for a medium and $5 for a large according to the pitch), mosey on down to Big Ed's burger joint at 132 Queen St S. (A word of caution however; the Urban Dictionary defines Mootine as “a fat boy” which might just be the outcome of eating too many!) 

Finally, earlier this week, I was at a splendid fundraising dinner at Benchmark Restaurant with the proceeds benefitting Niagara College students. I learned the College is running a Chef Signature Dinner series featuring instructors from the College’s Canadian Food and Wine Institute. (The last dinner in the series will be May 9th.)

The six featured chefs are a Who’s Who of Niagara cuisine; the next event in the line-up (March 6th) features the ebullient Chef Olaf Mertens who produced a great suckling pig and mud bugs creole appetizer at the afore-mentioned fundraiser. Frankly the events are a relative bargain at $79 all in, including taxes, gratuity and a wine or beer pairing. Call 905-641-2252 ext. 4619 or email benchmark@niagaracollege.ca for reservations.

So whether you are off for a Mootine, or something a bit more haute, happy eating.

For more pictures, click here. 

Alex (Alex can be reached at fft@thehamiltonian.info ) or on twitter @AlexBielak

Food for Thought logo, designed and kindly donated by Ninka Bielak. Ninka can be reached at ninka.bielak@gmail.com.

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak- A Coffee Drinker’s Dilemma (Part 2)

A Coffee Drinker’s Dilemma (Part 2)

Part 1 of this column got a strong response from readers of Food for Thought. Besides the expected suggestions for favourite methods of caffeine delivery, the hot button issue was clearly the environmental impact of “one cup” systems.

Some of you even questioned my environmental cred simply for reviewing pod-delivered coffee. Let me assure you, I agree it is environmentally unsustainable to add tons of used pods to landfills. For an excellent overview of that issue see this New York Times article, courtesy of my friend Ecogirl, or read this piece as flagged by a reader in the comments section from Part 1.

For the record, I won’t be switching to any variant of the pod system soon as I’m happy with my current Espresso machine and other alternatives. I’m glad, however, to see producers of such systems moving to address the environmental concerns.

Adriana Melo, the manager of the busy new Burlington ECS location, told me some of the product they sell

Saturday, January 19, 2013

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak - A Coffee Drinker’s Dilemma

A Coffee Drinker’s Dilemma (Part 1)

Like many, I love a great cup of coffee in the morning. Most of my life my preference has been for espresso, and latterly decaf espresso. I love it so much, my graduation present to myself 30-years ago was a heavy-duty manual Gaggia machine to replace the little stove top espresso makers still in the basement.

Once the brewing head on the Gaggia succumbed to metal failure I quickly got another, a Saeco: after a decade of regular use it became terminally clogged with lime buildup and exploded in the kitchen one morning. A noble end to a good friend.

Lesson learnt, I now regularly de-scale my current Saeco semi-automatic. Not as finicky as the manuals, it


Friday, January 4, 2013

Food for Thought with Alex Bielak- Exploding the System

“Exploding the System” - Caveat Emptor

“Caveat Emptor” means “Buyer Beware,” and is one of the few phrases I’ve retained from my middle school struggles with Latin. It sprang clearly to mind recently as I was driving back to Hamilton munching on some exotic snacks.

After delivering my daughter back to her domicile after the Christmas break I made a pit stop in a large Chinese grocery I had noticed on the way to her apartment. I love the distinctive smells in such ethnic emporia as well as the mounds of unfamiliar products.

I meandered around the aisles wondering what on earth some of the products might be and how I could use


Food for Thought with Alex Bielak- Exploding the System



“Exploding the System” - Caveat Emptor


“Caveat Emptor” means “Buyer Beware,” and is one of the few phrases I’ve retained from my middle school struggles with Latin. It sprang clearly to mind recently as I was driving back to Hamilton munching on some exotic snacks.


After delivering my daughter back to her domicile after the Christmas break I made a pit stop in a large Chinese grocery I had noticed on the way to her apartment. I love the distinctive smells in such ethnic emporia as well as the mounds of unfamiliar products.


I meandered around the aisles wondering what on earth some of the products might be and how I could use them in my cooking. One box of colourful packages caught my attention: they depicted a mound of brownish balls nestled in a sea of grass.


The ingredients list was handily translated into English on the back of the package. And since you can’t make this stuff up, I quote directly and exactly, including the punctuation, and invite you to see the attached photo in case you think this a New Year’s Fool joke:


“This product fine ferments take the degreasing soybean as the main rawmaterial becomes, luster red brown sauce fragrance thick, sticks thicklymoderate, flavor tasty, the nutrition is rich, is the family commonlyused regulator taste high quality goods.

Ingredient :Food water used, Degreasing soybean, Table salt, Sodium benzoate

Qualitative index : Amino acid condition nitrogen ≥ 0.50g/00g

Preserved method : This should lay aside ventilates, coolly, is dry place, not suitableexposed depositing”


Well, it had my attention even if I was not really much the wiser. I read on:


“Ediblemethod ; Operates the bag to be direct edible, or adds the meat, the egg, theseafood explodes the system, also may serve as the cooking, the coldfood in sauce.”

Even though the label further assured “the Yingkou Sauce brews the limited liability company” and there was 12 months “Guarantees the nature time” I’ll admit to not wanting to explode my system or anyone else’s for that matter. Amused, I took a picture and moved on down the aisle.


I did buy a package of Vietnamese “Cashew Pucks” which promised sugar-glazed cashew-half brittle adorning tapioca wafers. I was happily munching on these in the car when it dawned on me that the second and third layers of these cookies sported crumbled pieces of cashew rather than the lustrous halves I thought I was getting (see pictures). I really like that style of cookie so no biggie, I thought.


When I got home I opened another purchase, the bag of “Green Treasure Health Prime Minister” seaweed flavoured coated peanuts. As I tried to extract the treats from their bag, my fingers encountered an unanticipated resistance. I thought at first it might be one of those desiccant packs one sometimes finds with these kinds of food. But this was more substantial.


There was a prominent plastic insert in the bag that effectively bulked up the package to make it seem like there was more of the fairly bland product in it than there actually was. When you look at the pictures you’ll see what I mean. My experience reminded me of the sort of misleading advertising examples that grace the inside back cover of Consumers Reports Magazine.


In and of themselves each of these occurrences might have passed without comment. It took the conjunction of the three to make me reflect that one really does need to be

on one’s toes, particularly when in unfamiliar territory, or when one wants to avoid explosions!




For more pictures, click here