Food for Thought with Alex Bielak - Narrowing the gap between mush and perfection

Narrowing the gap between mush and perfection

As I sit in the garden enjoying freshly made bread, with a slab of sharp, aged cheddar and a sliced tomato still warm from the vine, I’m moved to a brief reflection. In July I spent ten days in hospital, the location being of no import. I’ll forever be grateful for the great care I experienced then and, indeed over several occasions during the past forty years when I’ve found myself in such a situation.

Without being aware of the specifics, I know our institutions face huge challenges in providing three squares a day for folk who are ailing, particularly faced with picky eaters like myself. But the sad truth is the food was stereotypically awful. Indeed the best thing I had during my stay were the two chunks of freshly-sliced watermelon that appeared one day on my tray. They were crunchy, seasonal and juicy, such a contrast to much of the other bland, gag-inducing mush. I gobbled them down with gratitude.

The saving grace was, once I was up to eating, family and friends brought in treats. Fresh-squeezed orange juice stirred the palate, freshly-made sandwiches on crusty bread tempted me to eat and gain strength. Strawberries from the garden were a huge treat paired with the packaged Rice Krispies I hoarded from my breakfast tray.

Just prior to my confinement I had the privilege of eating a meal at one of the best restaurants in North America. Dinner at Langdon Hall, just down the road from us, in Cambridge, was beyond my expectations: the setting and service were spectacular, but it was the food that blew me away. (My review of that dinner appeared in both the Spec and the Waterloo Region Record in late June.)

A small complimentary appetizer epitomised the importance of appearance and textures in food. Chicken and duck liver parfait was artfully presented in a pretty duck foot porcelain egg cup. I wrote “Thin fried chicken skin, translucent caramel crisps, and cacao and dark chocolate crumb garnishes added further delicious dimensions.”

So the dish was not just beautiful, the tiny portion of unctuous parfait was counter-pointed with interesting, complementary tastes and textures. That excursion, coupled with my hospital stay, served as a re-calibration of sorts, important for someone like me who writes about food. 

Obviously not every dish, no matter the setting, can be amazing, though chefs at establishments the calibre of Langdon Hall strive for perfection every day. What one should expect however is some appreciation of the importance of seasonality, fresh local ingredients, attractive presentation, and flavour and contrasting texture in the food we are served. 

Chefs have largely got the message, and it is time, within the limits of the strictures facing them, that our institutions do the same, and narrow the gap between mush and perfection.

To see all past columns please see (and “like”) the Food for Thought Archives
Alex (Alex can be reached on twitter @AlexBielak)