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| Chef Michael Stauffer and crew - Rib Eye Jacks |
My last column covered the launch of the currently ongoing Taste of Burlington 2014 and revealed the results of my straw poll of 23 chefs, owners and other professionals present. I had asked who is producing the most innovative cuisine in our area, but had other questions too.
The second related to the biggest challenges facing the various establishments. Once again the answers were illuminating and thoughtful. They ranged from the almost cuss-word emphatic (“Weather!” was the succinct response of Mike Lorinczi, DOWNTOWN BISTRO’s owner) to longer responses falling into several categories.
They essentially break down to time, staff, competition, innovation and seasonality. Where to obtain a Chef’s hat also featured, but read on for that tidbit.
Primed by ongoing interactions with Chefs in Hamilton, I was frankly surprised by what I did not hear. There was not a single complaint about the City of Burlington! Clearly the folks at city hall understand the “destination” potential of a vibrant culinary scene.
Congruent with answers to the first question, several restaurateurs said they were super busy and their
greatest challenge was one of time. Answers ranged from the relatively mundane (“Trying to get everything ready for the day” said RUDE NATIVE Chef Ryan Hubert) to the wistful: Executive Chef Adam Mackay, PARADISO noted if he “didn’t need to sleep that would be good.”
Chef Marco Carnicelli of CELLIS OSTERIA was more precise, indicating the November/December Season was “tough to get through” but January and February gave some opportunity to relax.
QUEEN’S HEAD PUB Chef (and celeb judge choice winner) Will Edsall also responded “Time!” noting that he tends to take on everything, but “thing’s overlap.” Christina Christiansen, Catering Chef for the Ampersand Group, that owns several eateries, said “Keeping up with everything as the company is expanding” was her challenge.
Staffing was an issue too: Irene Burns, owner of People’s Choice award-winner WEST PLAINS BISTRO was also pithy in responding. “Staff” she said. Head Server, David Vanderveen, laughed and said that was his response too! Prompted, Mitchell Lamb, Chef at co-People’s Choice award-winner, the STONE HOUSE reluctantly offered “finding dedicated chefs in the area” as his challenge.
The top concern – echoed by several respondents - seemed to be related to exposure in what is a very competitive environment. John A. MacDonald, Operating Partner of the BULLDOG and BEAVER said “Competition is fierce. There are lots of good operators and savvier consumers… also better options in grocery stores.” Chef Ronnie Knox of PEPPERWOOD found his challenge “keeping up with all the new talent.”
Allie Bedford, Guest Services Manager for the IVY BAR/KITCHEN said her challenge was getting people in to “an awkward location.” Gordon Dyson and Doug Birrel, respectively Chef and Owner of the PURPLE HEATHER PUB, agreed saying in these “tougher times… Getting our name out there and more people in the seats” was their challenge, something they are trying to address with an increased emphasis on craft beers.
Purveyors of more exotic fare face an issue too: Mohammed Emami, Owner and Chef, RAYHOON cited the issue of “familiarity with the (style of) food itself: to get people to try it (Persian food) for the first time.” On the up side he noted that once customers had been a first time, “then it is not a problem at all to get people coming back.”
Sachin Bali, owner of AMAYA EXPRESS said that apart from the weather, his biggest challenge was “to get the food critic in!” Adding optimistically, “Today’s the day!”
New locales have similar concerns: Alex Mickalow, owner of TEST KITCHEN, which opened recently saw “getting people in seats” as his top challenge while another newcomer, Chef Brett Turnbull of FRATICELLIS was pre-occupied with the aftermath of opening a new Italian restaurant in the area, while still tied in with the Richmond Hill mother-ship.
Chef Michael Stauffer who is getting RIB EYE JACKS up and running (they have a charming “Beer Technician”, Kylie Tindall who presides over a Cask Tapping each Thursday) also outlined his major challenge: “Trying to stay innovative and to balance innovation with stuff that will sell. That’s truly a fine line, especially in a corporate restaurant.”
On the flip side Nadia Robinson, Front of House Manager of The NAKED SPROUT saw space as her greatest need because “we are growing immensely.” I found their offering at the launch event (spiral-cut zucchini in a complex “marinara”) pretty tasty, so I guess there is a lot to be said for excelling in your niche.
Top-rated (by his peers), and perhaps more-established, Chef Tobias Pohl-Weary of RED CANOE was more pre-occupied with the challenge of “finding the precious local ingredients at the right time of the year.” Chef Stephen Lightfoot, owner YE OLDE SQUIRE also noted “changing things up and keeping new, fresh and seasonal” was critical.
Craig Kowalchuck, owner of the WATER STREET COOKER perhaps summed it all up in his response: “More customers. We all need more. There are lots of reasons why. Also how we deliver – we are judged on every single plate.”
We’re truly fortunate in our region: As evinced by the Taste of Burlington launch, there’s a greater abundance of exquisite plates than ever, prepared by talented Chefs in a competitive environment. May that happy situation endure.
Food for thought, indeed.
Ps I promised hats. Lauren Hambleton, the young pastry Chef, at SPENCER’S AT THE WATERFRONT was stymied when I asked her about challenges. I eventually discovered, earlier in her career, she used to make Chef’s hats and her challenge has been getting people to buy them. If you’d like one contact her direct at lohambleton@gmail.com.
For more pictures, click here.
Alex (Alex can be reached at fft@thehamiltonian.info ) or on twitter @AlexBielak
Food for Thought logo, designed and kindly donated by Ninka Bielak. Ninka can be reached at ninka.bielak@gmail.com.
The interaction with the Chef's is very interesting. I would like to see more bistro style restaurants in the other parts of Hamilton. A few good ones have open in the core and are doing well. Burlington is thriving every night with people. Good food and wine will bring people out to spend money and interact with the community. The city should be looking at reinvneting the waterfront along confederation park. There is so much potential, while still being able to keep much of it green and shoreline for walks, sighseeing etc...
ReplyDeleteGordan
Couldn't agree more Gordan. Thanks for the comment
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