Food for Thought with Alex Bielak

Vinexx marks the spot - A Hamilton-based fine wine business

The façade of the Kirkendall-neighbourhood house belies what lies within. This is not just a gracious residence, but the ground floor is the headquarters of Vinexx, a Hamilton wine business employing about ten people and turning over a respectable $5 Million a year in a competitive market dominated by big brands.

Somehow, years ago, I found myself invited to a tasting of wines in Oakville which is where I first met Vinexx Special Projects Manager, Johanne Desautels. She organized the event: I had fun, ate some nice nibblies and tasted some decent wine.

Over the years it was always a pleasure to hear from Johanne about an upcoming tasting. I always enjoyed the events, and occasionally ordered a wine or two that I particularly enjoyed from her. The beauty of the events was the reliable mix of wines. Different varieties, at different price points, some available by private order, but many listed at the LCBO. Instant gratification, more or less.

In March, 2013 I found myself at Seasons Restaurant in Oakville, again tasting a variety of wines and
snacking on some tasty hors d’oeuvres. (Vinexx also hold events in various other GTA locations, the latest on James Street, Hamilton.) There I was introduced to the President of the company, Rolf Lutz, who founded Vinexx about 12 years ago with his wife who serves as Company Secretary.

He was busy greeting guests and pouring wine, including some delicious private list Grand Cru “Cuveé Daniel” Pierre Paillard Champagne. (It is in fact so delicious that famed chef Daniel Boulud has it privately labelled – and at a consumer-friendly markup - at his Toronto Four Seasons Café Boulud, according to the restaurant’s friendly sommelier, Jordan Alessi). It was nice to meet eight-generation winemaker, Quentin Paillard, at the event as well as representatives of several other wineries.

At Johanne’s suggestion (she professes to be shy,) I interviewed Alex Palmer, a relative newcomer to Vinexx, earlier this week. Palmer, whose focus is private sales, will also lead the design and creative work for the company, including an overdue revitalization of its website and social media presence. He moved recently to Westdale, and his past includes a stint as an of “artisanal” drink mixologist in Toronto and Oakville. As he began to get more experience in placing product orders and training staff in serving drinks, he realised that the wine side was for him.

When I ask about the Hamilton headquarters, he says when people notice the postal code on his card he does get some interesting looks. “Most of our competitors are downtown Toronto... They feel the need to be where the action is... Certainly we do focus on (Toronto) which is the biggest market for us, but a lot of companies neglect anything west of Etobicoke.”

I hear a familiar refrain: he’s been blown away by the great restaurant scene west of Toronto, including “fantastic” restaurants in Hamilton. There are more and more great restaurants that are happy to have somebody take care of their business in Oakville, Burlington and Hamilton: “In Toronto, there will be a line up to speak to the buyer.”

He loves the camaraderie at Vinexx and is thoughtful in his analysis of how the company is continuing to carve out its niche. The philosophy of the company is summed up in their corporate identity as “Great wines from the world’s greatest houses,” notes Palmer. “… we will seek to acquire the best house in a given region, or among the best of the best houses, and we’ll look to build a portfolio in that area around that house,” he adds. In contrast to some other agencies he said Vinexx doesn’t usually go into more than one house in an appellation, except “… where there is such a degree of variety that it would not create a conflict.”

He gives the example of their sole affiliation with the house of Guigal in the Côtes du Rhône several of whose wines are in the Vinexx portfolio. He is particularly enthusiastic about the 2009 E. Guigal Gigondas. With some availability in the Hamilton/Stoney Creek/Burlington area LCBOs (#331900, priced at $31.95) he says it’s “a really exceptional bottle of wine for this price” noting that the LCBO reordered the same vintage immediately after selling out the first order, a rare occurrence apparently). He also mentioned the Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rouge is a Vintages essential item at a lower price point (LCBO# 259721, $16.95).

As we toured Rolf’s well-stocked private cellar in the basement of the property, Palmer was visibly excited at some of the treasures on the racks. “The Vinexx portfolio is a lot larger than many people realise. We have a great deal of depth with a European, predominantly French, focus.” Though they do have products on the LCBO general list, their primary emphasis is on the premium end of the spectrum.

I mentioned some of the wines at the March tasting I had particularly enjoyed, a wonderfully-fresh, 2011 Willy Gisselbrecht Sylvaner Tradition (LCBO# 315028, $ 11.85 – would go great with seafood), the big and buttery Calera Wine Company 2011 Chardonnay (713313, $ 24.95), and several offerings from New Zealand’s Mud House. Alex reminded me that, as Vintage releases, they might now be a challenge to find. (As of writing, there is some local availability – check the LCBO site.)

He suggested the following as currently easily available and provided the following notes: “At $13.85, and gold medalist at Chardonnay du Monde, the Lorgeril "Les Coteaux" Chardonnay 2010 - Pays d'Oc France is on the general list (320424) and an incredibly good, easily approachable wine - especially for the price”. The May “Wine of the Month” Mud House "Woolshed" Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – Marlborough (312744, $20.95) and the general list Pinot Noir at (190462, $17.95) are also worth trying.

Finally, I had loved a 2011 Viognier from Sonoma producer, Cline Cellars, so to challenge your palate with some different varietals I’d encourage readers to try Alex’s recommendation of their Ancient Vines Carignane 2011 (32177) and Mourvèdre (66084, both at $20.95).

Alex left me with this parting thought. “At Vinexx… we want to present wines in a way that is honest, and approachable, and to provide our clients and partners with the service and education they need to appreciate them fully. We want to be a touchstone for classic wines in a growing and maturing wine culture in Ontario."

From Hamilton, no less.

If interested, readers can sign up to Vinexx’s mailing list, or call them at 905-525-1113, or toll Free 877 659 WINE (9463), to order wines from their portfolio.

To see more pictures, click here. 

Alex (Alex can be reached at fft@thehamiltonian.info ) or on twitter @AlexBielak

Food for Thought logo, designed and kindly donated by Ninka Bielak. Ninka can be reached at ninka.bielak@gmail.com.